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Please refresh the page and retry. The pilgrims, scallop shells dangling from their backpacks, are up before the sun. This ancient seat of the Reconquista, eponymous capital of the kingdom which famously had 24 kings before its upstart neighbour Castile even had laws, has long been a major way-station on the holy Camino to Santiago de Compostela.

Beyond the ornate Gothic stonework of the doorways I gasp at the stained glass, the most exquisite gour Spain. This magnificent arched crypt, with its beautifully frescoed ceiling, has been described as the Sistine Chapel of the Spanish Romanesque.

The Basilica of San Isidoro. And the next lot of pilgrims are arriving to mingle with the crowds in the expanses of Plaza Mayor, and rest their blistered feet at the tables fronting its bars.

Brittany Ferries ; brittanyferries. Journey time on the train is five hours. Simple but spanish women black men and central accommodation located directly across the square from i Basilica of San Isidoro in Plaza de San Isidoro ; hotelboccalino.

A brilliantly located and boutique-cool hotel with a contemporary and excellent-value restaurant Plaza Mayor ; ; nh-hotels.

A delightfully sited restaurant on a charmingly low-key cobbled square. Cool canteen-style interior Sta Maria del Camino 2; ; piconera. We urge you to turn off your ad blocker for The Telegraph website so that you can continue to access our quality content in the future.

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Visit our adblocking instructions page. Ask at either of the main tourist offices by Plaza San Marcelo or opposite the cathedral whether any coincide with your visit.

Fees are always payable for access to the cathedral. Ask at the cathedral museum for tickets for the platform tour.

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There are small-group guided tours in Spanish to the excellent Sierra-Pambley Museum Plaza de Regla, 4; sierrapambley. An excellent local guide is Blanca Lobete ; guiaslegio hotmail.

Search out low-key places like La Rinconada Conde Rebolledo 1; to experience authentic Leonese tapas. We've noticed you're adblocking.

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